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Runway Reviews

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Temperley London Spring 2009. © FirstView

London Spring 2009: Emma Cook, Nicole Farhi, Temperley London, Todd Lynn

(LONDON) Emma Cook

Cook's Spring 2009 collection, "Susie Soleil," featured graphic-print dresses and chiffon tees in a palette of mostly grey, black, white, khaki and coral before turning pink, purple and iridescent for night. A pencil skirt was sexed up with a zipper that unfurled all the way down the back, while ruffled hems and fringe accessorized dresses. In an apparent anticipation of London's frequent showers, Cook also showed variations on the clear plastic raincoat: It came as a jacket and a poncho, embellished with black piping or rhinestones.

Nicole Farhi

For Spring 2009, Nicole Farhi stuck to what she does best: comfortable, classic pieces. Cocktail and sundresses abounded--some in painterly prints, with or without embroidered embellishment, others in sateen stripes or fern appliques. Farhi also sent basic separates down the runway, like simple cardigans, striped long-sleeved tees, pleated trousers and chiffon blouses. Raffia hats, bow headwraps, belts in various prints and wedges were the main accessories, although Farhi's final look sported an additional touch: an Obama '08 pin.

Temperley London

For Spring 2009, Alice Temperley decided to take a "Romantic Odyssey," an appropriate title for a show she has moved back to London after several seasons in New York. The collection was inspired by the age of Enchantment in post-Victorian Britain, a time characterized by a reaction against restraint and a movement towards color and light, inspired by characters of the time such as Beardsley and Chaplin. This translated itself into fashion with uber-feminine dresses-the Dana dress, which emerged in varying lengths and colors, boasted an extravagant bow on one shoulder; the Glade dress had a goddess-y feel to it and the final looks were completely in bloom. Colors ranged from blacks and creams to vibrant pomegranate and sapphire shades; blouses and trousers had a fluid ethereal sentiment. Accessories included studded star-shaped belts and large floral headpieces, while the latter part of the collection included toughened-up add-ons like a medival leather waist-coat and chainmail tunic.

Todd Lynn

Todd Lynn's Spring 2009 collection, "Devour the Divine," took its inspiration from the thirties and forties, particularly the film The Day of the Locust, which tells the tale of a group of Hollywood wannabes in 1938. Progressive fabric choices--glazed bamboo, lacquered cotton, vintage paper leather and silk net give the collection a futuristic slant. Same with the variations on the basic tuxedo jacket, which was reworked as a biker style, a feather-embossed double-breasted spencer and a tailcoat in the season's palette of smoke, antler and raspberry. The final dress was entirely made of plumage in shades of grey, with an exaggerated feather bustle. Suzy Menkes and Plum Sykes sat front row.

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