Makeup Guru

It might seem incongruous to be writing about autumn/winter beauty trends on the eve of spring/summer 2011-2012 collections, but in my experience Fashion Week doesn’t necessarily prompt one to long for summer again.  If anything it steers your attention away from cotton and in the direction of cashmere. Hence now is the ideal time to discuss new season - that is, this season's - beauty.

Now, there are certain beauty trends that are destined only for the runway. Like the ‘show pieces’ in any collection - those that the designer never intends to go into production – some make-up and hair looks are created knowing they will never make it to the street. Being that they speak a language that is too theatrical, perhaps too technical and too time consuming for even the most esteemed beauty pundit to communicate, these looks showcase the art and the craft of it – for aspiration's sake. As for inspiration, well, as you read further you’ll see that there are a great many looks that translate effortlessly, designed to be customised to the wearer’s own specifications.

Colour in the shadows
Trade in your muted, neutral, dare I say safe and reliable eyeshadows for a myriad of colours this season. The contrast is guaranteed to enliven a sunless complexion. Experiment with vivid shades and pastel hues. Both of which were popular at the shows, with two tone variations appearing at Zac Posen, washes from lash line to brown in moss at Philip Lim and in fushcia up at Thakoon, and a slick tick in aquamarine appearing on the upper lids at Jil Sander.

Precious metals
If applying colour is too bold for comfort, opt for metallic shadows instead. Try dusting pigment over your entire lid (as seen at Rodarte, where a generous amount of cooper powder created a soft, whimsical look. And also at Chanel, where a silver wash added an unexpected amount of depth in the absence of the oft-preferred black, navy and aubergine). Alternatively try creating a more precise shape (as seen at Derek Lam), drawing a dramatic wing tip or sharp edged contour. For an even more subdued option, press a little sliver or gold on the inner corners. It will open up a smoky eye, adding glamour to an otherwise rudimentary look (as seen at Roberto Cavalli).

Line up
No matter which way you draw it: up at the ends, or with a downturned corner (as seen at Marc Jacobs), liquid liner is a must-do this winter. Try a fine, delicate line (as seen at Gianfranco Ferre); or, opt for a stronger, more graphic stroke, guaranteed to define your lashes with intensity (as seen at Louis Vuitton); otherwise, loosen up; settle on an imperfect line (as seen at Giorgio Armani) instead.

Clumpy lashes
Some seasons call for precise lashes, dressed with perfectly applied mascara. This time round, long, glossy, separated lashes simply won’t suffice. Update your look by favouring gloopy, splodgy lashes (as seen at Chloe, Lanvin and Valentino) instead. Apply copious coats of dense, black, volumising mascara to curled lashes, focusing on creating a clumpy effect. Resist the urge to comb through before leaving them to dry.

Perky pink cheeks
Ready for another seasonal beauty contradiction? Pink blush: not only is it a spring staple, but it’s ideal for winter too. Seriously, what better way to add youth and vitality to an otherwise pale, dehydrated complexion? Apply generous amounts of cheek blush on the apples of your cheeks (as seen at Ralph Laurent). Or, if you’re feeling particularly adventurous, try wearing a bright powder high on your cheekbone (as seen at Versace). Apply it with a soft brush, small amounts at a time - it’s best to build the colour’s depth as you go.

Bold brows
At Jean Paul Gaultier, Alexander Wang, Rick Owens and Prada the brow stole the show. Proof that bleaching them to mere nothingness was only a fad. Forget creating blocky, equally unnatural-looking brows, however. Instead, try drawing in individual hairs with a sharp brow pencil or a very fine, damp brush dipped in matte eyeshadow. Be sure to select a shade that matches your brows perfectly. As a final touch, sweep clear gel through your brows to keep everything in place.

Bright lips
From tangerine (at Sonia Rykiel) to bubble gum pink (at Donna Karan), lips were unforgetable this season. Of all the shades on show, however, the most prolific was red: neon red (at Ralph Lauren), true red (at Jil Sander), scarlet red (at Gucci) and cherry red (at Diane von Furstenberg). Choosing your ideal shade is easier than your may think. Blondes suit orangey-reds, while brunettes are best served with blue-based tones. Red heads on the other hand look best in rose hues.

Ballet buns
This season the knot was taken up a notch. For a revitalized take on this classic style, try braiding your hair (as seen at Andrew Gn), then slicking it tight. Alternatively, rub it between your fingers first, for a threadbare chignon - low-slung is best (as seen at Sonia Rykiel). Or, why not twist it high above your head for a more youthful finish?

The new ponytail
Not content with the basic, or even the classic, hairstylists took the ponytail in every conceivable direction this season. Little wonder then that the part was treated as the texture’s equal, with glassy to mussed-up, from severe to sexy, all fortified with a very defined center part (as seen at Christopher Kane) or side swept (as seen at Akris and YSL).

Big on volume
The adversary to both the chignon and the ponytail is volume - the lot of it variety. Inspired by the 60’s this season, stylists at Bottega Venetta and Fendi teased and backcombed; then, raked and smoothed hair into place, crafting gravity defying bouffants and twists. Create your own by teasing the front and crown sections (the amount of height your choose is up to you), before securing the lot at the back. Leave your lengths free, it will keep your look fresher and more youthful.

Khush Singh - Celebrity & Indian Bridal Makeup Artist

Related Posts :