Makeup Guru

It was not so long ago that Victoria Beckham was treated like a pariah in fashion circles.

Stylists sneered at the former Spice Girl's outfits and designers refused to loan her clothes, whispering that her endorsement was the kiss of death.

But Mrs Beckham has undergone one of the biggest fashion reincarnations since Burberry was transformed from a dowdy Home Counties staple into an international celebrity favourite.

Personal style: Victoria Beckham's latest collection includes a red jersey dress with folded neck (left), a lamé chiffon and jersey asymmetric dress (centre), and Posh in one of her own designs at this year's Vanity Fair Oscar party (right)

As her fourth collection was presented in London yesterday, at Mayfair's Savile Club, stylists and editors ate low-fat slivers of humble pie while running the rule over dresses they now covet.

Two rails of frocks, each bearing her signature brass zip down the spine, drew admiration from even the most cynical fashionistas.

While the collection's structured simplicity had much in common with her previous ones, it revealed that Posh's designs have developed.

There was intricate seaming and more diaphanous fabrics such as chiffons and lamés.

Fit for a lady: A twisted drape dress with corset bodice (left), a silk jersey with grosgrain embroidery (centre), and a fitted frock with fold detail in emerald felt (right)

Origami-influenced sheath dresses in heavy rib jerseys nestled alongside glossy raffia tweeds tailored into understated dresses that owe more than a nod to a young Grace Kelly or Tippi Hedren.

Such pared-down silhouettes cut with the precision of a master tailor have become her look, and it seems she's on to a winner.

'The clothes rarely reach the shop floor,' said a spokesman. 'Clients see the collection and put their names down in advance, so it's unusual to see the pieces merchandised in retail spaces - they're sold before they can get there.'

And that's despite the high price tags - an 'entry level' dress from the current collection costs £1,000, while prices for the more intricate gowns start at £4,000.

Floating along: The 'Cloud' frock in a blurred pixel print (left), silk crepe column dress in sapphire (centre), and a floor-length belted trench dress in lamé chiffon (right)

Why? These are grown-up clothes for sophisticated women - high-profile fans include Elle Macpherson, Gwyneth Paltrow and Jennifer Hudson - and they cater for even the more voluptuous figures within the English sizes six to 14.

Like any designer at the helm of a burgeoning fashion business, Victoria employs a team to help translate her style into a commercial collection, but one of her design assistants said yesterday: 'From the shade of teal that's just so, to the weight of the lamÈ for the bodice of a dress, Victoria is in control every step of the way.'

Certainly, what Posh wants, she gets. While there are no plans for theatrical catwalk shows yet, her empire is slowly expanding, into sunglasses and denim.

And with predicted sales of £7.5million in the next three years, it seems she is now a fashion force to be reckoned with.

Promotional blitz: Victoria Beckham stars in the second ad for the LG Fashion Touch mobile phone

After a fashion: Victoria Beckham appears alongside Israeli Yotam Solomon in the ad