Makeup Guru

Photo: Knowles: John Spellman/Retna; all still lifes: Steven Krause

From left to right: Crowd-pleasing O.P.I. Axxium Soak-Off Gels; Knowles flashes her blinged-out Minx nails; A gilt-ridden selection of Minx nail coverings

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Given the myriad affordable, DIY nail products on shelves (polish in a pen, peel-off lacquers), it’s no wonder some women have been skipping their manicure appointments. Now salons are upping their game, promising “permanent” polish—chip-resistant soft gel coatings and shrink-wrap-like adhesives guaranteed to stay perfect for weeks longer than the regular base, color, and topcoat combos.

These superpowered polishes steal technology from much-maligned “acrylics,” traditional fake nails crafted from viscous resin that, while ultradurable, are too ugly and thick to pass as natural. Permanent lacquers (also called “soft gels” or “soak-off polish”), a thinner reincarnation of that acrylic paste, are as pliable as regular paint, but like acrylics, once they are set with ultraviolet light, they form a lasting bond with the nail that won’t chip. Plus, “they can actually help some women grow their nails, by providing a protective cover,” says Suzi Weiss-Fischmann, cofounder of O.P.I.

If your finish loses luster or if you tire of the color, regular polish can be applied on top of the soft gel. Depending on how fast your nails grow, every few weeks you’ll need to return to the salon for “fills,” color touch-ups to shade in the area of new growth. And just like traditional lacquers, these permanent polishes (which cost upward of $40 for one manicure) come in a rainbow of hues. O.P.I.’s new Axxium Soak-Off Gels are available in some of the brand’s most popular shades, including Russian Navy and the deep purple Lincoln Park After Dark, letting you temporarily fill in your soft gels at home. Calgel, a popular brand in Japan and Europe that recently made its mark stateside, has 84 customizable colors. To dissolve the tough gel formulas, clients soak their nails in a strong acetone-based solvent for 15 to 20 minutes.

Those who want a megawatt manicure, however, are already addicted to Minx, a pliable film that comes in 165 variations, including Gold Studs and highly reflective Silver Lightning (the style of choice for Beyoncé Knowles and Blake Lively). One ELLE staffer described her Minx manicure as “melted foil” on her nails. The application, which lasts around 10 days and costs $45 to $60, takes half the time of a regular paint job—a technician adheres designs to the nail under a heat lamp, with zero risk of smudging. Removing them is even easier—a direct blast with a hair dryer will do the trick.

New York City–based manicurist Lisa Logan says her clients, including Beyoncé, appreciate the fume-free experience and out-of-this-world appearance. And, she adds, “the fact that there is no dry time is especially helpful on sets,” where the last thing you want to do is explain a metallic smear on a $10,000 gown.