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Deals & Steals

Benefit Cosmetics LLC

The Most Disgusting and Heinous Beauty Treatments

Bird droppings, placenta, snail slime … it’s not a page from Papa Smurf’s spell-casting playbook, but a list of what could be, should be or is part of your beauty regimen. Plenty of companies synthesize substances—snake venom, human sperm—to put in products, but these six grody ingredients are the real yucky deal.

Bird Poop
A favorite of Victoria Beckham’s, a Shizuka NY Geisha Facial involves slathering your face in bird poop for fifty minutes at $180 a pop. Uguisu no fun (“no fun”… for reals)—sterilized nightingale droppings—are said to “brighten and soften the complexion with their natural enzymes.”

Placenta
And we thought the last time we’d be coated in placenta was when making our planetary debut… J. Lo, Eva Longoria and Simon Cowell keep their skin looking as smooth as a baby’s bottom by slathering on masks and creams containing placenta, with proteins said to moisturize and accelerate skin regeneration. Some companies use animal placenta, but most use placentas donated from women after giving birth. Ew.

Snail Slime
Like the starfish of crustaceans, Chilean snails make a protein that can repair injuries in their shells. The goo contains collagen, elastin, glycolic acid and peptides, and the two products (De Tuinen Snail Gel and Elicina) claim it can help with fine lines acne, rosacea, stretch marks, scars, and hyperpigmentation. Aimee Adams, a celeb make-up artist with clients that have included Madonna, Sienna Miller, and Rachel Weisz, swears by it.

Ramen Noodles
Not just for broke-ass college students anymore. At Japanese spa-themed park Yunessun you can take a dip in a pool of ramen. Spa staff says the pepper collagen in the broth improves metabolism as it cleans the skin. To meet sanitation requirements, the spa uses noodle-shaped floaties rather than the eggy, floury goodness, but the pork broth comes from a neighborhood noodle shop. Other baths have included sake, coffee, curry and wine.

Beetles
Lipstick, eyeshadow, blush, body lotions … lots (and lots) of cosmetic products on the market contain carmine pigment: crushed shells, wings, and eggs of the Cochineal Beetle. People have been using it for centuries because it gives products (and your lips and cheeks) a nice, rosy tinge. If this freaks you out, best to avoid all kinds of ingredient lists; it’s in your food, too.

Bull Sperm
One four-legged mammalian money shot can give you lovelier locks. At Hari’s Hair Salon in London, (purified) sperm of organically raised Angus bulls is massaged into the scalp and heated for twenty minutes. The high-protein treatment makes hair shiny and bouncy because it, er, penetrates better than other conditioners.



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Don't hide behind turtlenecks; we've got the latest and greatest products for neck and décolletage
neck wear

Neck wear

I recently overheard a conversation between two women on the subway, during which they talked animatedly about poultry. They weren’t referring to a new recipe or restaurant; they were discussing clothing options that would hide their sagging “chicken necks.”

This got me thinking not only about buying a new turtleneck, but about how much we all neglect this delicate area of our bodies. I can’t even remember the last time I slathered my favourite face cream onto my neck or gave my décolletage any special attention, yet the neck and chest are prime sites for the telltale signs of aging in women.

“It’s an area of the body that suffers tremendously from sun exposure,” says Fred Weksberg, a cosmetic dermatologist in Toronto. “Red and brown spots appear, you lose elasticity, the skin starts to sag and hang. That’s where the chicken neck comes in.”

It’s not all gloom and gizzards, though. You can make a major difference in the texture and appearance of your skin at the doctor’s office. Weksberg recommends the use of a Fraxel laser, which resurfaces the skin, stimulates collagen growth, lightens brown spots and smooths wrinkles. But here’s the catch: You’ll need about five or six treatments one month apart to achieve optimal results, and it’s not cheap — fees start at about $500 (neck) and $800 (chest) per treatment.

There are also things you can do at home to make improvements. Start by taking your skincare regimen down a notch — that is, below your chin — by cleansing and moisturizing your neck and chest as often as your face.

Weksberg recommends regular use of antioxidant creams to improve the health and appearance of the skin, as well as a prescription vitamin A acid product to boost collagen, and stresses the importance of wearing a broad spectrum sunscreen at all times. Here are some products to try.

From left to right:

neck-wear350.jpgMama Mio Skincare for Supermamas Boob Tube ($42) is a leave-on moisturizing mask that uses antioxidants CoQ10 and vitamin E to help skin replenish itself.

Tone and nourish the fragile skin of the décolleté area with Clarins Bust Beauty Firming Lotion ($60), which contains an exclusive Amazonian bocoa extract and pomegranate formula.

The vitamin C in Shiseido White Lucent Brightening Serum for Neck and Décolletage ($75) helps to lighten dark spots and target skin dullness.

Decléor Paris Perfect Sculpt Bust Beautifying Toning Gel ($62) uses a cocktail of eight essential oils to promote firm, healthy skin.

Lancôme Rénergie Microlift Neck R.A.R.E. ($95) promises to help increase skin firmness with a lifting complex of soya and silica proteins.

Apply Garnier Ultra-Lift Pro Deep Wrinkle Roller ($23) with an upward motion to best deliver skin-boosting omega-3 and -6 and beech tree extracts.

Lightweight Mèreadesso Woman Face + Neck Cleanser ($45) acts as a multi-tasking makeup remover, mask, scrub and toner.



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AdvertismentHair be gone!

SPF 50. SPF 70. Even SPF 100! Whatever happened to good ol’ SPF 30? Clinique has new SPF 50 Face Cream. Dermaglow offers 70 SPF Cream. And Neutrogena Ultra Sheer Dry Touch Sunblock SPF 100 was introduced to the US market this season. What’s up with the new crop of through-the-roof-SPF sunscreens?

Is SPF creep about advanced protection… or advanced hype? More importantly, do you need to change your formula? ElleCanada.com set out to get the new scoop on today’s mega SPFs.

WHAT IS SPF?
First, let’s run through a refresher course in Sun Protection 101. SPF stands for “sun protection factor,” a measure of the extra time you can stay in the sun without getting burned when you’re wearing a sunscreen or sun block, versus not. So, if you’d typically burn after 10 minutes in bright sun, an SPF 15 product will give you 150 more minutes or about two-and-a-half hours (10 minutes multiplied by 15) of fun in the sun – minus a burn. Conventional wisdom – and the Canadian Skin Cancer Foundation – suggests a minimum SPF 15 product for regular everyday use.

EXTRA PROTECTION?
So why might someone need an SPF 70 product? “People with higher sun sensitivity due to their genetic skin type, medications or due to dermatological procedures would benefit from higher SPF protection,” says Dr. Charles Lynde, a dermatologist and an assistant professor in the Department of Medicine at the University of Toronto. Fair-skinned lasses, retinol cream or Accutane users, cosmetic surgery divas: this means you.

…OR EMPTY NUMBERS?
But naturopath Dr. Tony Kovacs, a California-based VP of Soleo Organics, a natural skincare company, calls über-high SPFs “marketing hype.”

“When SPF levels are portrayed on a graph, the graph tends to plateau around SPF 32 to 35. Any number above that is negligible with regard to protection. For example, an SPF 100 may give an extra 1% protection (at most) but the reality of being able to stay out in the sun longer is a complete hoax,” he says.

“If an SPF 30 will offer protection of up to four hours, then it stands to reason that an SPF 60 would offer eight hours and therefore SPF 100 would be 10 hours. But this is definitely not the case, as no sunscreen can offer protection for that period of time,” says Dr. Kovacs.

CLINICAL SETTINGS VERSUS REAL LIFE
But Dr. Lynde argues super-high SPF products carry the added protection of compensating for a shortfall between laboratory and real-life SPF applications.

“In real life, an SPF 30 product behaves considerably lower [than in a lab setting], and thus higher SPFs may achieve better realistic protection,” he says.

A third doctor we consulted, Dr. Jeffrey Benabio, a dermatologist and assistant clinical professor at the University of California, San Diego agreed with both Dr. Lynde and Dr. Kovacs to a certain extent.

Dr. Benabio agrees with Dr. Lynde that unless you mimic lab testing by slathering on “about one-sixth of a bottle of sunscreen,” every time, you’re not getting the SPF you see on the label. “When less is used, the actual SPF is much lower,” says Dr. Benabio.

But, adds Dr. Benabio, “The higher the original SPF, the more the number drops. So, for example, most people who apply an SPF 70 sunscreen probably get a true SPF of about 10. Most people who apply a sunscreen of SPF 30 probably get a true SPF of about 8 because the number drops off much less.”

“Therefore there really isn’t much difference between an SPF 30 and SPF 70 sunscreen,” says Dr. Benabio.

Tested!
We tried the following sunscreens….

Clinique SPF 50 Face Cream: Nice consistency, sensitive-skin formula, solar-activated antioxidants

Dermaglow 70 SPF Cream: Super-smooth milky consistency, pleasant scent, makeup-friendly

Soleo Organics All Natural Sunscreen SPF 30 : Heavier physical barrier zinc oxide suits avid outdoorswomen. Biodegradable, coral-reef-friendly formula.

Lavera Naturkosmetik Anti-Ageing Sun Milk SPF 20: 100% mineral formula offers immediate protection (most other brands must be applied 20-30 minutes before sun exposure). Yummy scent. Organic plant extracts.

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Get gorgeous skin with these simple, everyday tricks to look your best

Nice to meet you

Introduce new skincare products to your face one at a time. That way, if you have a reaction to an ingredient in a new cream or cleanser, you’ll be able to identify the culprit immediately, rather than guessing which one out of your new, five-product regimen caused the irritation or breakout. 

Hot stuff

Long, hot steam sessions (either during a facial or in the steam room) dehydrate your skin, according to Linda McDonald-Ferris, former director of the Hazelton Spa in Toronto. (She prefers to use a gentle, warm mist of essential oils during her facials.) Hot water can leave skin dry and irritated, which leads to overproduction of oil or broken capillaries becoming more aggravated. Skip the scorching shower and ask your esthetician to go mild during treatments.

Put a lid on it

We’ve all heard about the importance of fighting free radicals by boosting our cupboards with antioxidant-rich foods and beauty products. But when it comes to creams, the packaging is crucial. “Dermatology has recognized the importance of antioxidant vitamin C, but what’s important to realize is that if it oxidizes, it loses its efficacy,” says Piermarco Luzzatto-Giuliani senior vice-president of Active Cosmetics Canada. Look for creams that come in airtight pump or tube dispensers that block out light, such as Jouviance EcoDefense Antioxidant Emulsion and Vichy LiftActiv CxP Eyes.

Protect your assets

Forget all the fancy-pants lotions and potions; sunscreen is still the best anti-ager around. “A broad-spectrum, SPF 30 sunscreen is the best-value anti-aging cream you can buy,” says Vancouver-based dermatologist Frances Jang. If your skin errs on the sensitive side, look for the chemical-free ingredients titanium dioxide and zinc oxide in products such as Dermalogica Super Sensitive Faceblock or Neutrogena Sensitive Skin Sunblock Lotion.

Know a pro

If you’re concerned about fighting the signs of aging, see a dermatologist sooner rather than later. (And while you’re at it, get that mole checked out.) “Anti-aging information can be hugely confusing,” says Jang. “There are proven molecules and procedures you can use that will help slow down and reduce the signs of aging. But it’s important to get expert guidance on what’s right for you at this stage of life, given your lifestyle and budget.”

Rub-a-dub scrub

Exfoliate, exfoliate, exfoliate! “It allows the outermost layer of the skin, which frequently builds up with dead skin cells, to be rejuvenated and look more radiant,” says Scott-Vincent Borba, L.A.-based founder of the Borba skincare line. “Exfoliating also allows for better penetration of any treatments or products.” Both manual scrubs, such as Soap & Glory Scrub Your Nose In It, and chemical-based ones, such as NeoStrata Smoothing Lotion, work effectively to turn over cells.

Don’t get sensitive

Alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA) is a great chemical exfoliant, but it can really sting — it is an acid, after all. If you can’t stand that tingling feeling, you’re in luck. New technology is making it possible for AHA to be encapsulated in a time-release base, so you can get the same percentage of active ingredient spread out over time. Try Dermaglow Glycolic Smoothing Moisturizer to get results without irritation.

See the light

Want to step up your skincare regimen? Intense Pulsed Light (IPL) is an effective (and proven) way to start. “It simultaneously addresses blotchy skin, sun damage and age spots, and also firms and re-texturizes skin,” says Jang, who has been using IPL for almost a decade. She also recommends the Fraxel Repair laser treatment, which improves collagen formation, reduces redness or brown spots, and tightens and tones skin. One caveat: Fraxel Repair requires downtime of two to seven days, during which the mirror won’t be your best friend.

Home hardware

Not ready for an in-office treatment? Stay at home and try Health Canada- approved Tända Regenerate Anti-Aging Light Therapy Treatment, which uses red LED lights to improve skin texture and tone with no downtime.

Get your own, Mom!

Many of the popular acne products on store shelves are aimed at teens and are about one thing only: blasting bacteria. The results can leave older skin gasping for relief from harsh, drying ingredients. “You need to focus on calming and soothing the skin as well as disinfecting it in a non-irritating way,” says L.A. -based celebrity skincare guru Ole Henriksen. Try Cor soap, a gentle, moisture-rich bar that contains nano-silver, a natural antibacterial agent, or Ole Henriksen Blemish Attack Purifying Mask with soothing aloe vera and white tea.

Fresh and clean

Put the heavier, muskier scents of winter on the shelf when the seasons change.  Warm skin can easily turn a musky perfume into a cloying, overpowering one during hot weather. Go for light and pretty florals or refreshing citrus notes for summer, such as Elizabeth Arden Green Tea Exotic with spearmint and lily or Liiv Botanicals Vitality’s mix of cucumber, grapefruit and jasmine.

Face your age

If you’re getting fillers or injectables at your dermatologist’s office, keep your expectations realistic. “As a woman over 40, the goal is to enhance what you have,” says Kellett. “I think it’s abnormal when people come into my clinic and want to look like a completely different person. To be a fresher version of yourself is a very reasonable expectation.” Hear! Hear!

Get in order

Got all your skincare goodies at the ready? Here’s the best order to follow: “Start by cleansing, then apply sunblock and follow with moisturizer on top,” explains Lisa Kellett, a Toronto-based dermatologist at DLK on Avenue. “After cleansing, the most important thing is that you put the product that protects your skin on first.” Make sure to wait a few minutes before applying another product on top of sunscreen so that you don’t dilute the strength of the SPF.

Glow easy

Gorgeous skin glows and looks lit from within — and it’s an easy one to cheat. “Use a light-reflecting moisturizer,” says McKay. “You can get away with less foundation and concealer.” Try M.A.C Strobe Cream, which contains antioxidants and mineral pigments to brighten skin.



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The sun is shining and you're happily soaking up some rays but your makeup is making a not-so-flattering descent on your face. If your mascara is running, your eye shadow is creasing and your lipstick is straying away from your lip line, you're looking like a hot mess rather than a cool summer beauty.

Korby Banner, the makeup artist whose talents you may have seen in action on the W Network's makeover series Style by Jury, shares some expert tips on how to make your summer makeup stay put. With some simple skin preparation, light makeup application and the right products, you can look fabulous all day long, no matter how high the mercury rises.10 must-have summer makeup and beauty products
Here are some of Banner's recommendations for essential products for summer beauty:

1. Sunblock-infused moisturizer (can be tinted) -- to protect and hydrate your skin.
2. Mattifying face primer -- a makeup base that acts as a "cushion" between your skin and your makeup, keeps your makeup on longer and controls shine.
3. Concealer -- to hide dark circles under eyes and cover up blemishes.
4. Q-tips -- for makeup application, blending and clean-up.
5. Good-quality eye shadow -- to avoid creasing.
6. Eye liner
7. Waterproof mascara -- to avoid smudges.
8. Blotting tissues -- to absorb oil and keep your face from looking too shiny. Pat, don't smudge!
9. Lip liner and sealing topcoat -- to keep colour from traveling off your lip line.
10. Translucent powder -- to seal your makeup.

Troubleshooting summer makeup mishaps
We've seen the "raccoon eyes," when mascara wanders off lashes. You've seen excessively oily skin, unsightly lines of eye shadow that settle into the creases of your lids and lip colour that won't stay put. Here are some ways to conquer makeup meltdown and keep everything just where you want it.

Homemakers.com: My mascara easily smudges, leaving dark circles under my eyes. What can I do to prevent that?
Korby Banner: When you apply your eye cream, let it set for five minutes so that it absorbs into your skin. Then apply a good coat of waterproof mascara and, to be absolutely sure it stays on, put a little bit of translucent powder on a clean mascara wand and apply it over your mascara.

HM: My skin is excessively shiny. What can I do to prevent that?
KB: Use mattifying cream and blotting tissues. We use mattifying cream on models in the photo studio (Banner is a also a photographer) under the hot lights and their makeup stays on.

HM: What can I do to keep my eye shadow from creasing on my lids?
KB: Put a little bit of primer on your lids. You need just a micron of a dab. Apply it before the shadow and use good quality eye shadows. Try primers such as: Cover FX Skin Prep or Smashbox's Photo Finish. Apply it on lids and all over your face, under concealer.HM: Lip gloss travels into -- and emphasizes -- the lines around my mouth. Do you have any tips for stay-put lip colour that's not drying?

KB:
For moist and shiny lips that don't "move," take your liner and sketch an outline around your lips. Next, use the liner to feather in its colour onto your lips, then take a Q-tip and completely remove all of it and just leave a slight, residual tint of the colour. Then put on a topcoat sealer. The sealer looks like clear lip gloss and it "sets" the colour.

Korby's tip: If you want even more shine, take a little highlighter -- like a frosted highlighter that you'd normally use on your brow bone -- put it on your lip, before you put the gloss on, and then make the gloss look even more 3-D for that really pouty look.

When facing summer heat and humidity, you want to avoid makeup build-up. Keep your application light and aim for a dewy -- neither greasy nor chalky -- complexion. Use waterproof products to avoid smudges and to keep your makeup from fading, and keep those blotting tissues handy!

This summer, don't fear the sun's attack on your makeup. Armed with Banner's tips for meltproof makeup, you'll be ready to face the world with your mascara, lip colour and eye shadow intact.

Put these tips to good use with your sheer makeup for the season's hottest look.

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All the pro tips and tricks to look fresh-faced after forty

40 makeup tips
Beauty tips for midlife

Finish last

Had a late night and an early morning? Don’t break out the concealer trowel just yet. Put the rest of your face on first. Toronto-based makeup magician David Goveia says women tend to be heavy-handed with cover-up, which can look unnatural and highlight flaws in older skin. “Wait until you’ve applied your base, blush and lipstick — you’ll look better, feel better and end up using less.”

Curl, girl

An eyelash curler may look like a medieval instrument of torture, but it should be a basic in your beauty bag. Why? It opens up the eyes for a more youthful appearance and helps mascara make a bigger impact. Gently close the clamp on upper lashes, squeeze for 10 seconds, then softly open before removing. Follow with mascara.

Don’t have a meltdown

Whether it’s a hot date or a hot flash, you want your makeup to stay put. Look for products that won’t melt or slide in high temperatures or on moist skin. Try Cargo Cosmetics Water Resistant Bronzer and Better-than-waterproof Mascara, and keep makeup from slipping with Clarins Fix’ Make-up.

Stop wine-ing

Ditch those dark wine or overripe plum lipsticks in the recycling bin. Severe, dark colours put your lips on a diet, making them appear thinner. “I call it the Cruella De Vil look,” says Toronto-based makeup artist Jackie Shawn. “From a distance, it appears almost like a gash on the mouth. Softer colours can give the illusion of a fuller lip.”

Zoom lens

Don’t be scared to take a closer look. A magnifying mirror is a must-have — great for doing eye makeup, plucking stray hairs, putting in contacts or just examining the current state of your skin. Focus with the Tweezerman Tweezermate 10x Lighted Mirror, which can be attached to a larger mirror for convenience.

Arc angel

Eyeliner doesn’t have to be applied in one perfect swoop. In fact, most of the makeup artists we know use several shorter strokes to line the eyes. A soft line makes for a great daytime look (and pre-morning coffee, it’s much more manageable). Another option: Use an eyeliner brush and shadow.

Softly, softly

Opt for a facial cleanser before reaching for the eye makeup remover. A good, water-soluble face wash will remove makeup without the extra step (or cost) of using a separate remover. More importantly, it will also save on unnecessary rubbing and tugging of the skin in the delicate eye area (hello, wrinkles!). Try gentle but effective products such as Cetaphil Daily Facial Cleanser or Dove Pro-Age Foaming Facial Cleanser. If you can’t do without your waterproof mascara (notoriously difficult to get off without a blow torch — use water “resistant” instead), wash your face first and then gently sweep away remains with eye makeup remover.

Gone off

Always adhere to the shelf life noted on your products. If you can’t remember how long ago you bought something in your makeup bag, it’s probably time to toss it out.  (Or, if you were wearing bell-bottoms at the time of purchase, best donate it to science). Old makeup changes texture, loses function and builds up bacteria, especially in products that go on your eyes, mouth or that you dip your fingers into. Try Cargo Cosmetics Blu_ray Lip Gloss, which comes with an indicator to keep track of how long it’s been open.

Smoke signals

Contrary to popular belief, women our age can still indulge in a sultry, smoky eye for evening. “Just keep the darker shades softer and don't migrate too far up the lid,” explains Toronto-based M.A.C senior makeup artist Jane McKay, or you’ll end up highlighting pesky creases. Avoid black, and try some of the subdued hues that have popped up everywhere this season, such as cool greys and warm browns.

Perfect pout

Get yourself the right everyday lipstick. “All women should have a lipstick shade that is an exaggerated version of their own natural lip colour,” says Poppy King, Australian founder of cosmetics company Lipstick Queen. “It will always be a perfectly flattering shade, no matter what the occasion.” Remember, avoid completely matte lipsticks, which can settle into lines. Sheer or creamy textures (like those found in Shiseido’s Perfect Rouge collection) are an older girl’s best friend.

Lift me up

Good brows can frame and lift the face if shaped and maintained properly. “A well-placed arch lifts the outer edges of the eye and can even give the illusion of higher cheekbones,” says San Francisco-based Hilary Foote, vice-president of Benefit Cosmetics Brow Bars (who recommends getting a professional brow arch every three weeks! while tweezing strays at home). Give Benefit Brow Zings brow-shaping kit a try — it comes with tweezers, a brush, brow wax and powder.

Colour your world

Maybe you can't break out the turquoise glitter eyeshadow like your teenage daughter (please don’t), but you can still have some fun with an unexpected colour, especially on nails and toes. Purple polishes, such as OPI’s smoky violet-hued Parlez-Vous or Chanel’s shimmering rich aubergine Vendetta, make a style statement without looking like you’ve just left the disco.

Sweeping beauty

The doll-size applicators that come with most makeup compacts and eyeshadow kits are not worth the time —or the streaking —they offer. Invest in a set of makeup brushes made for grown-ups, and take good care of them by washing regularly to stave off bacteria and also extend bristle life. (Spray on a brush cleaner, such as Sephora Daily Brush Cleaner, or wash them gently with a mild shampoo, rinse and lay flat to dry.)

Straight flush

A swipe of vibrant blush on the apples of the cheeks can take years off your face. “My favourite colours to brighten skin are pinks, corals and peaches,” says McKay. “They make everyone look healthy.” When applying, go easy — there’s a fine line between a lively, cherubic glow and a mad clown.

Be serious

Speaking of clowns, stop smiling when applying your blush. It works as a tool to find the apples of your cheeks, but on more mature skin you can end up sweeping blush into the lines around your eyes, which will highlight wrinkles. 



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Your 10 Minute Face

Need to apply your makeup in a hurry?

Many women don’t feel comfortable leaving their homes without some makeup on. It is like a guard, a mask to represent a more polished you. The demands of work or school, and the lack of time when you most need it, don’t always allow for you to complete your preferred makeup look to perfection. Here are a few tips and a few makeup looks to help you make use of the time available more efficiently.

The Naked Look

Start with a concealer and just apply little dabs onto the blemishes you want to cover up. Then, to cover up the concealer and the other areas of your face, use mineral powder, but apply lightly.

Next, draw a thin line of black liquid eyeliner to your top eyelid. If you are not yet comfortable with the liquid eyeliner, draw the line with regular pencil eyeliner. You can leave it as it is or you can go over it with the liquid eyeliner to get a darker look and a longer lasting effect. Then, apply mascara to your top lashes.

For the final steps, just apply a little bit of blush to the apples of your cheeks and some clear lip gloss or a light pink hued lipstick to your lips and you’re done!

It’s All In The Eyes

If you want your makeup look to focus more on your eyes, you can do one of two things. One, you can make your eyeliner line thicker and/or longer. For example, you can try the cat-eye look by making the line a little longer, so that it goes past the end of the eye. Don’t follow your lash line. At the end, go a little higher and a little thicker to achieve this look.

The second thing you can do to make your eyes pop is to use eye shadow. Eye shadow can be attention grabbing in several ways: by being a dark colour, a bright colour, shimmery or blended with another colour. For day looks, I would suggest you stay away from darker shades involving grey, charcoal or black eye shadows as they are too dark for daytime and would be more suitable for evening events. Try summery hues that are in fashion right now like purple, blue and even green. Just be careful with the shades you choose and make sure that they do not clash with your outfit too much. The colour doesn’t have to match the colour of your outfit perfectly, but if you are wearing a colourful outfit, stick to neutral colours for your makeup. The reverse also applies; if your outfit is plain, you can let your eye shadow pop as much as you like. Shimmery eye shadows can also do the trick. Golden hues are always a safe bet in summertime. Plus, they match almost anything and are perfect for the daytime.

Heavy On The Lips

If you want your look to focus more on your lips, try the naked makeup look from above, but instead of using a light pink coloured lipstick, try something that attracts more attention. Red is a colour that screams and is perfect to go along with this look. You could also try hot pink, peach or, if you want to go for a really edgy look, try lipsticks in colours like lavender, gold and orange.

Make sure you pick a shade that is suitable for your skin tone. Choosing the wrong shade, especially in these eye-catching colours, could go from trendy to downright clown-like.

Time Saving Advice

If you don’t have time to apply all of your makeup, skip a few things. For example, you can skip the concealer and go right to the powder. Don’t apply all over foundation though, as that look is far from being a natural, naked look. Try tinted sunblock for mild coverage and fast application.

You could also skip the eyeliner and just put the attention-grabbing eye shadow on by itself. If you still want some definition, try lining the inside of your lids with black eyeliner as it takes less time to apply. Also, you could line your lids with a colourful eyeliner, but not when you are wearing a colourful eye shadow and definitely not in the same shade.

10 Minute Application

All the looks mentioned should take less than 10 minutes to apply, so they will really help you out in a jam. If you take a long time applying eyeliner, just practice doing it and in time you will apply it like a pro.

Also, it is summertime after all, so you can experiment with makeup looks as much as you like. Try finding something that suits your unique style.

Remember to apply sunblock and wait for it to dry before applying any makeup.



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MULBERRY LEAF EXTRACT/(mul-ber-ree leef ik-strakt )/n./ 1. Extract from the leaves of a range of small to medium-sized deciduous trees in the Moraceae family, native to temperate Eastern Asia and Polynesia; /n./ 2. A substance rich in arbutin, a hydroquinone derivative that can have melanin-inhibiting properties, thus serving to lighten skin pigmentation, e.g., “Start treating impending sun damage now with mulberry leaf extract.”

Try it: Beauty by Clinica Ivo Pitanguy Previous Lightening Serum with Mulberry, $200, www.neimanmarcus.com.



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Once believed to be the exclusive domain of goth or rock lovers, black has become one of the hottest beauty trends du jour. From smouldering kohl-rimmed eyes to sultry black nails or even sheer black gloss on the lips for the more adventurous, this hue can look deliciously edgy. “Black is a classic, very similar to red in many ways. It requires a certain level of daring to be worn well. The hard-rock image of men in black lipstick and nails might have dissuaded women from experimenting with this look but all that is changing. If used well, black can be playful or classic and can easily be worn at all ages. Younger users can be bolder while others could try creating sophistication with black, using the hue in moderation and blending with other shades,” says Deepa Bhatia, product manager, Lancôme India.

When using black, the most important thing is to focus on one feature at a time and not overdo it to avoid looking garish. “Also, you can only carry off as much black as your personality allows”, believes Cory Walia, make-up expert, Lakmé. Finally, this shade is best left for the evening. As Charmaine Rao, make-up artist, YSL puts it “black is glamourous after the sun sets.”

  • Nailing It
    “If you’re using black on your nails, make sure your nails are cut properly. Worn on nails that are too long, it could look tacky. Too short nails could end up looking messy. So ensure that your nails are clean and neat,” says Annabel Callum, make-up representative for www.talkperfection.com. Finally, top black nail polish with a transparent top coat to make nails shine, advises Rao.
  • Lip Service
    “Not very wearable, this trend is more suited for fashion make-up but if you’re daring enough to try it, wear nude lipstick with black gloss. Alternatively, you can use dark plum shades that look more subtle,” suggests Meeta Awatramani, training manager, Clarins India. “If you’re wearing black on lips, eyes and nails should be neutral. Use pinkish-beige shades on eyes with neutral colours and a French manicure on nails. Hair tied back in a chignon with a classic cocktail dress works well,” says Rao.
  • Eye Do
    The smoky eyes look is classic and eternally in fashion. Start with less, then intensify colour gradually. Under-eye circles must be concealed perfectly first. Finish off the look with mascara to open up the eyes and intensify the effect. Awatramani’s pick is Clarins Instant Light Eye Perfecting Base. When using black on the eyes, always create a barrier of loose powder under the eyes to avoid spillage of colour from ruining your foundation. Subtle and smooth shading with metallics—gold and silver—layered over the black looks ultra glam, Walia says.

BLACK TO THE FUTURE

  1. CLARINS – JAZZY COLOURS KHOL EYE PENCIL
  2. ESTÉE LAUDER – DOUBLE WEAR MASCARA AND EYELINER
  3. BOURJOIS – OMBRE STRETCH SIMPLIFIEE
  4. L’ORÉAL PARIS – MINERALS POWDER LINER
  5. YSL – LA LAQUE N° 35
  6. LAKMÉ – EYE ARTIST
  7. YSL – PURE GLOSS N° 49
  8. CHANEL – LES OMBRES 4 SMOKY EYES
  9. LANCÔME – COLOR FEVER GLOSS 040
  10. LANCÔME – LE VERNIS 011


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Obama Shine Police

Now it can be told: President Obama says one of the best-kept secrets at the White House is the pastry chef's to-die-for pie.

In an interview with The Associated Press on Thursday, Obama was asked to reveal a White House secret, and he dished about the pie.

Obama says the pastry chef makes "the best pie I have ever tasted, and that has caused big problems with Michelle and I."

The president said he and the first lady are "having to figure out how to resist ordering pie every night."

Obama also came clean about one of his pet peeves _ the "shine police." The president says that before his interviews, aides "constantly want to powder my nose and forehead, and it's never enough."

He finds that _ in his words _ "quite irritating."



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On the shores of Austria's picturesque Lake Worth lies a private clinic that has achieved an almost cult-like status among its loyal devotees, who include celebrities, business execs and Russian oligarchs.

In the five years since it opened, an array of wealthy clients - including Sarah Ferguson and former newspaper editor Dominic Lawson - have visited the Viva Mayr clinic, a spacumhospital where 'patients' fork out more than £2,300 each for a weekly stay.

Visitors do not come for the clean air and strudel, however. The Viva Mayr clinic is renowned for its strict - but incredibly effective - 'cure' that purges the body of toxins, leaving your body more toned, your stomach flatter and skin brighter in a matter of days.

The Viva Mayr clinic is renowned for its 'cure' which gives a flatter stomach within days

Body beautiful: The Viva Mayr clinic is renowned for its 'cure' which gives a flatter stomach within days

Clients leave the clinic several pounds lighter, with their skin glowing and their energy boosted.

Now, we can reveal the secrets of the clinic in an exclusive extract from the Viva Mayr Diet, which promises a flatter tummy and younger skin in just 14 days - with no faddy fitness routines and no intensive crash dieting.

Smart, simple and achievable, this intelligent diet series takes the gimmicks out of dieting, just in time for the summer holidays.

The programme has been developed by Dr Harald Stossier from a popular 80-year-old Austrian medical spa 'cure' devised originally by Dr Franz Mayr, the first person to make a direct link between digestive health and overall health and attractiveness.

By following a programme that enhances natural digestive processes, Stossier says that within 14 days his diet will not just help you to lose a substantial amount of weight, but it can also put an end to bloating and digestive problems, give you more energy and clearer skin - and might even help you sleep better. Easy to follow, with no calorie counting or living off cabbage soup for weeks, the Viva Mayr Diet promises to change your eating habits and shape for ever.

THE FIRST STEPS

Because this diet works to improve the way you digest your food and eliminates things like caffeine and sugar, which can have a detrimental effect on our metabolism, you might feel a little headachey or tired for the first three days as the cleansing effects of the diet start to kick in - but stick with it. Once you come out the other side, you'll feel amazing.

Although, like any diet, what you eat is important, on the Viva Mayr Diet how you eat is equally vital.

WHAT TO EAT, WHEN

To start losing weight, Dr Stossier says you need to be aware of your digestive system's rhythms. 'Just as our bodies and minds tire towards the evening, so does our digestive system,' he explains.

'In the first half of the day - when we are rested and raring to go - we can digest basically anything at all. This is, therefore, the time to eat your main meals of the day, and it is also the best time to eat raw foods such as fruit and vegetables, which can be difficult to digest.

'Dinner should always be something light and easy to digest, like soup, lightly cooked vegetables and fish - and eaten before 6pm ideally, to allow thorough digestion before you go to sleep.'

THE ART OF CHEWING

According to Dr Stossier, a thorough chewing technique is another indispensable element to losing weight quickly, and encouraging overall health and well-being.

When you chew more, you tend to eat less because - unlike when you thoughtlessly bolt your food - your brain has the time it needs to send signals to your stomach, telling it when you've had enough.

You also tend to eat less when you chew well, because chewing helps the nutrients in food to be released and absorbed more effectively. A wellnourished body suffers from fewer cravings.

You should chew every mouthful of your food between 30 and 40 times, at every meal, until food is liquid. It could be helpful to count at the beginning of your chewing training, to get you into the rhythm of it.

Practise on a small piece of dense wholemeal bread (bread that is a couple of days old is particularly good, as it's extra chewy). Really savour the bread as you chew - and move it around your mouth. Try to think about the nutrients you are putting into your body as you chew.

At first, you will only manage to get to 15 or so, but this soon improves with practice - and chewing your food thoroughly will become almost unconscious after a couple of days.

The Viva Mayr Clinic's diet purges your body of toxins

Renowned: The Viva Mayr Clinic's diet purges your body of toxins

WHAT TO DRINK

Like many diets, water plays a big part in the programme - but it is the way it is used to encourage good digestion and weight loss that's interesting.

Dr Stossier recommends a cleansing cup of warm water first thing in the morning - before food - then two to three litres of filtered water throughout the day (at the clinic, quartz crystals are dropped in the bottom of water carafes to 'cleanse' and improve the water).

All your water has to be drunk between meals.

Dr Stossier explains: 'If we drink while we are eating, we dilute our saliva just at the very moment we need it in a concentrated form to digest our food. Drinking water between meals - no less than 15 minutes before a meal and no less than an hour after a meal - is the best habit to get into.'

Aside from water, you can drink milk, herbal teas and fruit or vegetable juices. Tea and coffee are off the menu, because of their caffeine content, as are fizzy drinks. If you really must have something to drink with a meal,

Stossier recommends tiny sips of herbal tea or a small glass of wine. Wine is allowed because it can help to dissolve fat during digestion.

WHAT TO EAT

The strict diet promises a flatter tummy and younger skin in just 14 days

Incredible: The strict diet promises a toned body and younger skin

There are no fads or gimmicks to this intelligent diet, just a commonsense approach to weight loss. 'There is no mystery to losing weight; cut down on carbohydrates - and the amount you eat overall - and increase your intake of unsaturated fatty acids,' says Dr Stossier.

'We are told, as a dietary rule, to always eat plenty of carbohydrates for energy,' he explains. 'But following a diet high in carbs can cause weight problems. Carbs are converted into sugars as they are digested - so if we eat a lot of carbs, the pancreas has to produce large amounts of the hormone insulin to balance blood sugar levels, metabolise them, and to use their energy.'

'Unfortunately, a biproduct of having a lot of insulin in the blood is that any excess energy from the carbs we have eaten is quickly stored away in our bodies as fat.'

As long as insulin levels remain high, we will also store the other components of food, such as protein or fat. This can have a massive influence on our weight.

Stossier doesn't like to break our diet down into percentages, but he believes that if we focus on fresh fruit and vegetables and good-quality proteins and fats, we really won't be hungry enough to fill ourselves with carbohydrates - and, in particular, the unhealthy types, such as those made with white flour and lots of sugar.

Cut down on carbs by taking much smaller portions, and choosing wholegrain varieties that fill you up.

EAT MORE FAT

Fats are also important to overall health and are an essential part of this diet. But fats are not all created equal.

As you would on any healthy diet, it's important to avoid the unhealthy saturated types - in particular hydrogenated fats or trans-fats (often found in processed foods and margarines).

In moderation, whole fresh milk, cream and butter are better, because they are natural. But it's best to avoid very fatty cuts of meat and processed meat products such as sausages.

But the fats you really need to eat are the omega oils 3, 6 and 9 - found in cold-pressed nut and seed oils such as olive, linseed, hemp and sunflower. Not only can these fats help to keep you healthy, but they improve your overall health and even help you to lose weight. Omega oils (Omega 3 in particular - found in hemp and linseed) have also been found to encourage fat-burning in our bodies.

The ideal is to have approximately two tablespoons of one of these oils every day - so use them as much as you would salt and pepper. Drizzle over food, or stir into your cooking.

Nuts and seeds - which contain omega fatty acids in natural form - are great as a snack (although Dr Stossier claims you won't feel the need to snack if you follow the diet carefully) or sprinkled over salads, fish, porridge and so on.

CONTROL YOUR PROTEIN INTAKE

Proteins are an important part of a healthy diet, but you should avoid too many. A diet heavy on proteins can put the body's detoxification organs, such as the liver and kidneys, under enormous pressure, leading to the potential for toxin overload in the body.

Dr Stossier suggests that we should eat fish and other animal proteins, such as cheese and meat, a maximum of every second day. Better for you are vegetable sources such as pulses, seeds and nuts, which provide the amino acids we need to stay healthy in a more easily digested form.

If you are going to eat animal proteins, white meat, such as turkey, veal and chicken, is less likely to cause digestion problems, followed by lamb, then red meat and last of all pork.

All fish is fine and it's worth bearing in mind that cream cheese - and goat's and sheep's cheeses - are more easily digested than hard cow's milk cheeses.

Don't forget fibre, which is essential for optimal digestion. So where appropriate, opt for wholemeal cereals, pasta, noodles, wholegrain rice and so on.

Eat your greens, reds, yellows and purples. Other foods you should make a beeline for on the Viva Mayr Diet are brightly coloured fruits and vegetables, which are packed with protective antioxidants, vitamins and minerals and are a good source of fibre.

Day One Recipes

BREAKFAST

Fruit muesli with nuts

(Serves two)

15g walnuts
15g almonds
2 tbsp whole linseeds (flaxseeds)
80g soft, fresh goat's or sheep's cheese (unsalted)
1 tsp honey
2-3 tbsp unsweetened soya milk
Lemon or orange juice (to taste)
100g fresh, ripe fruits of the season
3 tbsp linseed/flex/hemp oil

Roughly chop the walnuts, almonds and linseeds in a coffee grinder or food processor. Place in a glass bowl, and stir in the cheese, honey and soya milk. Season with lemon or orange juice to taste. Peel and dice fruit (leaving berries whole). Divide the mixture into two bowls, and sprinkle with the fruit. Drizzle with oil and serve.

LUNCH

Vegetable salad with chicken strips

Coconut oil 4 chicken breasts, skinless and boneless
2 pinches of rock salt
1 stalk rosemary, chopped
4 tbsp olive oil
2 tbsp cider vinegar
500g mixed salad leaves
2 tomatoes, diced
1 carrot, peeled and diced
4 radishes, diced
1 kohlrabi, cut into strips
Fresh herbs to garnish

Heat a little coconut oil in a frying pan. Season the chicken breasts with a pinch of salt, sprinkle with rosemary, and fry for 8 to 10 minutes, or until the chicken is cooked through. Cut the chicken into strips and set to one side. Blend together the oil, cider vinegar and the final pinch of rock salt. Mix together your salad leaves and vegetables, and dress with the oil and vinegar dressing. Serve on a platter with the chicken on top. Garnish with fresh herbs.

Fresh berry cream

120g soft goat's or sheep's cheese
100g fresh berries, puréed and sieved
2 tbsp honey
250ml fresh cream, whipped
4 fresh mint leaves

Blend together the cheese, berry purée (reserving 20ml for later) and honey. Fold in the whipped cream, and decant into four glasses. Spoon a teaspoon of berry purée over the top of each of the berry creams, and then garnish with a mint leaf. Serve.

DINNER

Soft polenta with steamed vegetables and herbs

500ml water or vegetable stock
200g very fine polenta
Rock salt, to taste
20g butter
100g each of broccoli, fennel, carrots, courgettes and kohlrabi, all cubed
Marjoram or basil leaves to garnish

In a saucepan, bring the water or vegetable stock to the boil, and stir in the polenta. Add the butter and sea salt, and continue cooking for a few more minutes.

Remove the polenta from the heat, cover the saucepan and leave to sit for 20 minutes, until all of the liquid is absorbed. Next, steam the vegetables for a few minutes. Place the polenta on plates, and arrange vegetables over top. Sprinkle with herbs, and serve.

Fresh berry cream

Treat: Fresh berry cream

Day Two Recipes

BREAKFAST

Green tea (drink in tiny sips), slice of spelt or dense wholemeal bread; fresh vegetable sticks with herbal spread

(You can use Ryvita, rye or dense wholemeal bread from the supermarket if you prefer)

Part one:

125g sheep's or goat's milk yoghurt
125ml water
125g spelt flour

Mix all the ingredients together using a food mixer and leave to stand for eight hours in a warm place (an airing cupboard, or above an oven that has been previously heated). The dough is quite liquid at first, but it will firm up as it stands.

Part two:

750g spelt flour
250ml warm water
1 1/2 tbsp cream of tartar

1/2 tsp each of: rock or sea salt, ground coriander, ground cumin, ground aniseed, ground fennel seeds
The sourdough made earlier (part one)

Mix all of the ingredients together with the sourdough and stir for 8-10 minutes - you might want to use a food mixer.

Form flatbreads of approximately 70g each from the dough; leave them to rise for 45 minutes on a lightly floured baking tray, then prick the surface and bake at 190C for 15 minutes, until breads are golden brown. Leave to rest for a day and freeze any extra bread until you need it.

Vegetable sticks and herbal spread

100g each of carrot, celery and spring onions cut into batons
100g tomatoes, quartered
HERBAL SPREAD:
200g fresh, unsalted soft goat's or sheep's cheese
50g mixed fresh herbs, such as chervil, parsley, basil, coriander, sage or tarragon, chopped
2-3 tbsp cold-pressed extra-virgin olive oil
A pinch of rock salt

Blend all the ingredients together in a food processor or liquidiser, until smooth and creamy.

Place the vegetables on a platter, and serve with the spread. LUNCH Leafy salad with walnuts, apples and linseed dressing and potato and vegetable gratin with spinach sauce

LUNCH

Leafy Salad

400g mixed salad leaves
2 apples, cored and quartered
50g whole walnuts
4 tbsp linseed oil
2 tbsp freshly squeezed lime juice
2-3 leaves of fresh basil
1 tbsp sour cream
A pinch of rock salt
1 punnet cress

Wash salad leaves thoroughly and spin dry. Add the apples and walnuts and set to one side.

In a liquidiser, blend together the linseed oil, lime juice, basil, sour cream and salt until smooth and creamy. Arrange the salad on glass plates and sprinkle with dressing. Top with cress, and serve.

Potato and vegetable gratin with spinach sauce

1kg waxy potatoes, washed, peeled and cut into very thin slices
100g each of carrots, courgettes, celeriac, washed and grated
250ml double cream
Fresh herbs, finely chopped 1 nutmeg, grated
Pinch of rock salt
Olive oil 500ml vegetable stock or water 300g fresh spinach, washed
A pinch of rock salt
A pinch of grated nutmeg

Preheat the oven to 175C, 325F, gas mark 3. Mix together the sliced potato and grated vegetables, and stir in the cream. Season with the fresh herbs, nutmeg and rock salt. Next, grease an oven-proof baking dish with olive oil, and pour in the potato and vegetable mixture. Bake for about 40 minutes.

While it's cooking, bring your water or vegetable stock to the boil and add the spinach. Boil for one minute, then liquidise the spinach with the stock.

Season to taste with rock salt and ground nutmeg. If desired, add fresh herbs. When the gratin is browned, remove from the oven and serve immediately with spinach sauce.

DINNER

Poached trout with vegetables and lemongrass

500ml organic vegetable stock or water
A small bunch of fresh basil or parsley, finely chopped 1 stalk lemongrass, chopped
A pinch of rock salt
4 fresh trout fillets (or salmon, if you wish)
100g each of carrot, celery, parsnip and courgette - all cut into 2mm semi-circles Lemongrass and fresh herbs, chopped, to garnish

In a shallow pan, bring the stock or water to a boil and stir in the herbs, lemongrass and salt. Next, preheat a non-stick frying pan and add a few drops of olive oil. When hot, add the vegetables and stir-fry for a few minutes. Add the fish fillets to the stock and poach for a few minutes. Remove them from the poaching liquid and set to one side. Cover. Pour the stock over the vegetables and simmer until tender. Drain.

Arrange the vegetables on a plate and top with fish. Sprinkle with lemongrass and herbs and serve.

Extracted from The Viva Mayr Diet by Harald Stossier and Helena Frith Powell, HarperCollins at £12.99. ° Harald Stossier and Helena Frith Powell 2009.



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From restoring youth to delivering flawless skin, these luxe offerings make the cream of the crop

1. CLARINS – SUPER RESTORATIVE DAY CREAM
This high performance day cream is formulated with exclusive vegetal micro-pearls to help reduce lines and wrinkles in just a few hours while providing protection against harmful UVA/UVB rays.

2. SHISEIDO - BIO-PERFORMANCE
The Intensive Skin Corrective Program includes a serum and a balm that restores the original firmness of the skin and brings about a radiance after just two weeks.

3. YSL - TEMPS MAJEUR NUTRI CRÈME
A face cream that contains a cyto-regenerating complex that has an intense redefining action that leaves skin looking youthful and gorgeous.

4. CHANEL PRÉCISION - SUBLIMAGE ESSENTIAL REGENERATING CREAM TEXTURE UNIVERSELLE
A delicate velvety texture that’s easy to wear, whatever the season. Contains light shea butter to nurture skin suppleness and enhance its beauty.

5. GIVENCHY - SKIN DRINK RICH NOURISHING MOISTURE CREAM
Perfected for dry, dehydrated skin, it increases resilience and moisturises and soothes your dermis.

6. ESTEE LAUDER - RE-NUTRIV ULTIMATE YOUTH CRÈME
Leaves skin richly hydrated and supple by improving clarity and tone so it looks and stays perfect.

7. LANCÔME - SECRET DE VIE POT
Literally meaning the ‘secret of life’, this exceptional serum instantly softens skin making it appear visibly radiant and delivers instant results in both texture and luminosity.



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MAC Purple Haze

One would be surprised at the science involved in basic knowledge of makeup. As an artist who custom blends foundations, concealers and powders for skin tones ranging from the traditional Irish pale complexion, to the ebony tones hailing from Nigeria, and everything in between, it’s really quite intriguing. For instance, not that purple eyeshadow is in at the current moment, but if you recall from last year’s end, taking off your vibrant violet hues to reveal reddened eyelids underneath. This is because out of all the colors of the spectrum, purple is the only one that is not found naturally in nature. It is created through blending of synthetic materials, and therefore leaves one’s skin a little bit irritated. Worry not, though, there are no known harmful effects of donning purple eyes.

Just be sure to use a great eye primer before applying shadow (as you should with any color else the color won’t pop to its full potential nor last more than thirty minutes), such as award-winning Urban Decay Eyeshadow Potion (be sure to pat in to the eyelid using your finger so it’s no longer chalky), or MAC Paint in Bare Canvas for daily wear. Just remember to apply your shadow while the primer is still sticky, so it acts like glue.

Have you ever decided to be daring for a night out and pulled out that black eyeshadow you only otherwise use as eyeliner and apply it to your whole lid for that super sexy, biker chic look (kudos to you!), and noticed that your lids turned a shade of navy blue within a couple hours? Here’s something I’ve learned through years of experience of trial and error. Try first layering your lids with a shade of orange eyeshadow to counteract the blueness. Now you can rest assured you will go black and never go back.



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Indian Wedding Makeup

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